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Intro
If you’re looking for a trip that’s as delicious as it is scenic, Southeast Italy is calling your name. Picture this: ancient towns, stunning beaches, and food that will make your taste buds throw a party. Whether you’re in for one week or two, this guide is your ticket to discovering the sun-drenched region that lies at the heel of Italy’s boot. Here’s where to go, what to eat, and how to do it all without breaking the bank!
Lecce: The Baroque Beauty
Lecce is a city that feels like it was sculpted by time, and every street you wander down seems to reveal another stunning baroque masterpiece. Known as the “Florence of the South,” Lecce dazzles with its intricate architecture, ornate churches, and lively piazzas. The historic center feels like a step back in time, where every building is an artwork waiting to be admired. As you stroll through its cobblestone streets, you’ll discover hidden courtyards, old-world charm, and a buzzing atmosphere that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled upon a well-kept secret.
Don’t miss the Basilica di Santa Croce, one of the finest examples of Lecce’s baroque style, with its detailed façade that could easily have you staring in awe for minutes. Afterward, relax at one of the many outdoor cafes, sipping espresso and watching the world go by. Lecce is a blend of history, art, and modern Italian life, and it’s a perfect spot to get lost in for a few days.
Where to Stay:
Risorgimento Resort: If you want a slice of luxury right in the city center, this is your spot. Think rooftop views, plush rooms, and all the perks.
Antica Villa La Viola: This cozy, family-run B&B has the perfect balance of charm and comfort, just a short stroll from Lecce’s best sights.
Where to Eat:
Le Zie Trattoria: Get a taste of home-style Lecce cooking. The vibe is casual and warm, and the food will make you feel like you’ve just sat down to Sunday dinner with an Italian nonna.
Trattoria Nonna Tetti: A little off the beaten path, this gem offers hearty, traditional Puglian dishes. Don’t leave without trying the orecchiette con cime di rapa (it’s practically a local rite of passage).
Alberobello: Trulli-mazing
Alberobello is like a town from a fairytale, with its magical, cone-shaped Trulli houses that seem to pop up from the ground. These unique stone dwellings, built without mortar, have earned Alberobello a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and for good reason! Walking through this charming town feels like stepping into a living museum, where every twist and turn in the streets offers a new view of the trulli’s picturesque roofs. The town is small but oozes character, with narrow alleys lined with shops selling handmade crafts, local wines, and delicious olive oils.
The Trullis weren’t just built for decoration, they’ve been home to people for centuries, and many still serve as charming residences today. Take a guided tour of the town, or just wander at your own pace, exploring the fascinating architecture and quaint boutiques. If you’re lucky, you might even be invited into one of the Trulli for a warm cup of coffee and a glimpse into local life.
Where to Stay:
Trulli Holiday Albergo Diffuso: For the full Trulli experience, stay in one of these restored houses. It’s quirky, cozy, and, well, totally Instagrammable.
Tipico Resort: If you want something a bit more luxurious, these trulli accommodations blend traditional charm with modern comforts.
Where to Eat:
Trattoria Terra Madre: This place is all about fresh, local ingredients, and it’s where you’ll find dishes that are as authentic as they come. Perfect for those looking for a taste of real Puglian food.
La Cantina: A great spot for a relaxed dinner paired with local wines and some mouth-watering regional specialties.
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Ostuni: The White City
Nestled atop a hill, Ostuni is a gleaming white jewel overlooking the rolling hills of Puglia and the sparkling Adriatic Sea. Known as the “White City,” its narrow, labyrinthine streets are lined with whitewashed houses that reflect the sun in a dazzling display of white and cream tones. As you wander through Ostuni’s historic center, you’ll get lost in the maze of alleys, discovering charming cafes, artisan shops, and panoramic views that stretch for miles. The white buildings create a dreamlike atmosphere that is both serene and captivating.
Don’t forget to climb to the top of the town to visit the Cattedrale di Ostuni, a beautiful cathedral that’s a stunning example of medieval architecture with a Gothic touch. Afterward, enjoy a leisurely walk around the town, and treat yourself to some of the freshest seafood in Puglia, as the coast is just a short drive away.
Where to Stay:
La Sommità Relais: This boutique hotel is a true oasis, an elegant retreat in the heart of the city, complete with stunning views and a rooftop pool.
Hotel Monte Sarago: Offering modern amenities and a lovely rooftop terrace, this hotel makes the perfect base for exploring Ostuni.
Where to Eat:
Osteria del Tempo Perso: Nestled in the old town, this charming restaurant is a perfect place to enjoy a leisurely meal while soaking in the atmosphere.
Al Solito Posto: Known for its delicious seafood and rustic charm, it’s a must-try for those who want to dive into the coastal flavors of the region.
Matera: A Journey Back in Time
Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and it truly feels like you’ve stepped into another time. Famous for its cave dwellings, or “Sassi,” Matera is a place where ancient history and modern life exist side by side. The Sassi are a collection of stone-carved homes and churches, once used as caves by locals and now restored as homes, hotels, and museums. It’s like walking through a living archaeological site, where you can explore ancient passageways and peek inside unique dwellings that date back thousands of years.
The Sassi di Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a must-see. Don’t miss the Cave Churches, these ancient sanctuaries, carved directly into the rock, are a stunning testament to the city’s long history. At sunset, the city transforms into a golden wonderland, with the soft light illuminating the stone buildings in a way that’s nothing short of magical. Matera is a place that makes you feel both humbled and inspired, offering a rare glimpse into the past.
Where to Stay:
Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita: Live like a local (but with a dash of luxury) in one of Matera’s ancient cave dwellings. Minimalist, chic, and a one-of-a-kind experience.
Hotel Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort: Stay in a restored cave with all the luxury touches. It’s got character and charm, and you’ll wake up in the heart of the Sassi.
Where to Eat:
Baccanti: This place serves up innovative twists on traditional Matera dishes. Perfect for a romantic evening or a special treat after a day of exploring.
Osteria Pico: Cozy and welcoming, with a menu that celebrates local ingredients. If you’re in Matera, this spot will make you fall in love with the city even more.
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Taranto: The Hidden Gem by the Sea
Often overlooked by tourists, Taranto is a coastal city with a rich history and a vibrant, authentic Italian atmosphere. With its ancient Greek and Roman heritage, Taranto’s history dates back thousands of years, and you’ll see echoes of its past everywhere, from the Aragonese Castle that overlooks the harbor to the impressive National Archaeological Museum, which showcases Taranto’s ancient treasures. But it’s not just history that makes Taranto special, it’s also the sea.
The city’s waterfront is lined with seafood restaurants offering fresh catches straight from the Mediterranean, and the harbor itself is a sight to behold. Walk along the water, enjoy the sea breeze, and indulge in a plate of cozze tarantine (mussels), one of the area’s most beloved dishes. Taranto is a city that feels like it’s just waiting to be discovered by those who want to go beyond the usual tourist spots.
Where to Stay:
Relais Histo’: If you’re looking for a little luxury, this spot delivers. Set in a restored farmhouse, it’s got all the amenities you need, plus a peaceful vibe that feels like a hidden getaway.
Hotel Europa: This centrally located hotel is ideal for exploring Taranto’s historical sites and the stunning coast.
Where to Eat:
Al Bagatto: A tiny, intimate spot that specializes in seafood. You’ll taste the freshest mussels and oysters, often straight from the local waters.
Taverna Re Manfredi: A fantastic local restaurant that offers hearty, traditional dishes. If you want to taste the real flavor of Taranto, this is the place.
Honorable Mentions: More Hidden Gems
While the cities listed above will definitely be the stars of your trip, don’t forget to check out these lesser-known towns that deserve a spot on your itinerary:
Craco: A ghost town perched dramatically on a hill, Craco offers hauntingly beautiful views and a fascinating glimpse into the past. It’s a photographer’s dream and a place that feels suspended in time. Abandoned for decades due to landslides, Craco now has an eerie, almost cinematic quality that makes it a must-see for those seeking something off the beaten path.
Gravina in Puglia: A charming town where ancient cave dwellings and medieval architecture blend together seamlessly. This hidden gem in the heart of Puglia is a quieter alternative to its more famous neighbors, offering narrow streets, historic churches, and panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Its unique rock-cut structures are reminiscent of Matera, but without the crowds.
Polignano a Mare: If you’ve ever dreamt of swimming in crystal-clear waters while overlooking a stunning cliffside town, Polignano a Mare is the place. Perched above the Adriatic Sea, this charming town is famous for its dramatic cliffs, pebble beaches, and the iconic Grotta Palazzese (a restaurant set in a cave overlooking the sea). The perfect spot for a romantic getaway or a relaxed beach day.
Monopoli: A quaint coastal town with a rich history and beautiful beaches, Monopoli is the kind of place where you can stroll through its charming old town, visit the majestic Castello di Carlo V, and then enjoy fresh seafood by the harbor. Less crowded than its nearby neighbors, it offers a peaceful blend of history, culture, and sun-soaked relaxation.
Cisternino: Often regarded as one of the most beautiful towns in Italy, Cisternino is a hilltop gem with narrow streets, whitewashed houses, and scenic views of the surrounding Valle d’Itria. It’s famous for its charming old town, where you can wander at your leisure, discovering boutique shops, cozy cafes, and macellerie (butcher shops) grilling meat right in front of you. If you’re a fan of great food and picturesque views, this is the place for you.
Nardò: A hidden gem in the heart of the Salento region, Nardò is a town that combines the charm of its medieval center with beautiful baroque architecture. It’s a more authentic experience compared to some of its more touristy neighbors. Wander through its bustling squares, visit the grand Basilica di Santa Croce, or relax in one of the many quaint trattorias serving up local dishes.
Mottola: Situated on a hilltop with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, Mottola is a small town with a big heart. Its ancient streets are full of history, from the Castello di Mottola to the Chiesa Madre (Mother Church). It’s also an ideal base for exploring the nearby Parco Naturale di Roccamassima, a stunning nature reserve filled with hiking trails and olive groves.
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Getting Around: Transportation Tips
Getting around Southeast Italy is pretty straightforward, but you’ll want to plan ahead to make the most of your time:
Rent a Car: This is the best option for flexibility. The towns in this region are often spread out, and having your own wheels allows you to explore off-the-beaten-path gems at your own pace. Plus, driving through the Italian countryside is an experience in itself.
Pro Tip: When renting a car, be extra cautious about entering restricted areas in cities. Many towns, particularly in historical centers, have “ZTL” zones (Zona a Traffico Limitato) residents-only or restricted traffic zones. I made the mistake of accidentally driving into one in a quaint town, thinking it was just a regular street, and ended up with a ticket, 10 months later! The fine was sent to me in the post, and it was definitely an unexpected surprise. So, make sure to pay attention to the signs, and if you’re unsure, avoid driving through areas with no clear parking or signs.
Trains: Italy’s train network is extensive and affordable. Advise readers to book tickets in advance through Trenitalia or Italo for discounts.
Regional Trains vs. High-Speed Trains: Point out that regional trains are slower but much cheaper than high-speed options like the Frecciarossa.
Passes & Cards: Mention Italy’s rail passes like the Eurail Pass or Trenitalia’s Pass for unlimited travel on trains at a discount for multiple days.
Buses & Public Transit: Many cities have excellent bus systems, and local public transport is very affordable. Public transport passes can be a great option for saving.
Taxis and Ride-Sharing: In the bigger towns, taxis and ride-sharing apps like Uber or Lyft are available, but keep in mind that they may not be as frequent in more rural areas. Renting a car or using local taxis can be more reliable.
Cycling: In many towns, particularly Lecce and Ostuni, renting a bike is a fun and eco-friendly way to explore. The terrain is relatively flat, making cycling a leisurely way to enjoy the sights.
Traveling on a Budget in Southeast Italy
While Southeast Italy is an absolute gem, it can be a bit tricky to do on a budget, especially if you’re used to more budget-friendly travel destinations in Europe. Hostels aren’t as common in this part of the country, and prices for accommodations in popular spots can be higher than you might expect.
Accommodation Tips:
Look for Agriturismos and B&Bs: These family-run accommodations often offer great value for money and let you experience authentic Italian hospitality. They can be found in more rural areas and are often much cheaper than city hotels.
Airbnb: If you’re looking to save a bit more and want to experience local life, consider staying in an Airbnb. Whether you find a cozy apartment in Lecce or a rural Trullo in Alberobello, it’s a great way to save on lodging.
Budget Hotels: While there are fewer hostels, you can still find budget-friendly hotels. In Lecce, for example, Hotel Delle Palme offers solid value without sacrificing comfort.
Food on a Budget:
Street Food: Italy is a street food lover’s paradise! Grab a panzerotto (fried dough stuffed with cheese and tomato) in Lecce or a delicious focaccia barese in Bari for a filling, inexpensive meal.
Trattorias and Pizzerias: Avoid tourist traps and opt for family-run trattorias where you’ll find homemade pasta dishes and pizzas at affordable prices. Local eateries often offer a “menu del giorno” (menu of the day) which is a great deal.
Supermarkets and Markets: Don’t be afraid to shop at local markets for fresh produce, cheeses, and cured meats. It’s a perfect way to picnic on a budget.
Activities on a Budget:
Free Walking Tours: Many towns, including Lecce and Matera, offer free walking tours (with a tip at the end, of course). It’s a fantastic way to explore the history and culture without spending much.
Beaches: Southeast Italy is blessed with some of Italy’s most stunning coastlines. The best part? Many of the beaches are free to access, just pack a towel and enjoy the Mediterranean sun.
Final Thoughts
Southeast Italy isn’t just a place to visit, it’s a place to live and breathe. It’s where you’ll savor every meal, soak in every view, and lose yourself in the beauty of ancient cities and seaside escapes. So, pack your bags, bring your appetite, and get ready for an unforgettable journey through one of Italy’s most captivating regions. Buon viaggio and, more importantly, buon appetito!
Some pictures sourced from Canva and Unsplash
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