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Chasing a Dream in the Jungle
Seeing orangutans in the wild was high on my bucket list long before I even set foot in Asia. There are only two places left on Earth where you can still witness these incredible animals living freely in their natural habitat: Sumatra and Borneo.
I’ve been lucky enough to spot them in both, but in this blog, I’ll be focusing on my time in Gunung Leuser National Park a dense, untamed stretch of Sumatran jungle where wild orangutans still swing through the trees like something out of a nature documentary.
It was humid, intense, and completely unforgettable.
Welcome to One of Southeast Asia’s Wildest Rainforests
Gunung Leuser National Park is one of the most biodiverse rainforests in Southeast Asia, stretching over a whopping 7,927 km² of thick, tangled jungle. It’s one of the last strongholds for critically endangered orangutans, which is reason enough to visit but the park is also home to an insane lineup of other wildlife.
We’re talking Sumatran elephants, rhinos, tigers, siamangs, Thomas leaf monkeys, macaques, and gibbons, all doing their thing deep in the forest. That said, don’t expect a tiger to casually stroll across your path (unless you’re extremely lucky and possibly being hunted).
This place is next-level when it comes to biodiversity. It’s home to around 750 animal species, including more than 200 mammals, 380 birds, and 190 reptiles and amphibians. Basically, if it creeps, crawls, swings, flies, or roars, it’s probably in there.
The park earned UNESCO World Heritage status in 2004, but sadly, it’s now also on the list of World Heritage Sites in Danger due to illegal logging, poaching, and encroaching development. All the more reason to visit responsibly and support the people working to protect it.
Bukit Lawang or Ketambe? Choosing Your Gateway
There are two main entry points into Gunung Leuser National Park, and which one you choose can totally shape your experience.
First up is Bukit Lawang, the more well-known, tourist-friendly option. It’s got the infrastructure, easier transport links, and plenty of places to stay. That’s where we ended up, mostly because we needed decent internet (the digital nomad struggle is real).
Then there’s Ketambe, more remote, more rustic, and far less touristy. If you’re chasing that off-the-grid, back-to-basics jungle vibe, this is the one. It’s also said to be more authentic and eco-conscious than some of the more polished tours running out of Bukit Lawang.
We would’ve loved to head to Ketambe, but with work commitments and spotty Wi-Fi, it just wasn’t in the cards. That said, if you’ve got the time and don’t mind a little extra effort to get there, I’d absolutely recommend it. You’ll likely have a quieter, more immersive experience and fewer people elbowing for that orangutan selfie.
How to Get to Bukit Lawang
We kicked things off by flying into Medan from Kuala Lumpur. We’d pre-arranged a jungle trek in Bukit Lawang, and the owner kindly sent someone to pick us up. That part went smoothly, though I won’t be recommending the tour company (let’s just say the experience didn’t match the brochure).
If you go this route, expect to pay around 500,000–700,000 IDR ($40–50) for a private car. It’s the most convenient option, especially after a long flight but not the cheapest.
If you’re traveling on a tighter budget and don’t mind roughing it a bit, there are cheaper (and sweatier) options:
Option 1: Minibus from Pinang Baris Bus Station
If you’re heading straight from Kuala Namu Airport, you can grab a Grab to Pinang Baris Bus Station in Medan. From there, orange minibuses run to Bukit Lawang—just make sure you get there before 5 PM, which is when the last bus leaves.
Here’s where things get spicy: the real price is between 15,000–30,000 IDR, but you’ll likely be quoted 100,000. Don’t panic. Just smile, be polite, and act like you’ve done this before. In fact, that “I’ve been here before” attitude will serve you well all over Sumatra.
Important tip: you pay on arrival, not before. Some tourists have been kicked off mid-route for refusing inflated prices after paying upfront. Don’t be one of them.
As for comfort? Let’s just say expectations should be… minimal. It’s hot, cramped, and the buses are often held together by rust and hope. I nearly sliced my hand open climbing into one. Smoking is totally normal inside too so if that’s a dealbreaker, maybe spring for a taxi.
Option 2: The Binjai Bus Route (ALS + Minibus Combo)
Another budget route is to catch the ALS bus from the airport to Binjai, a city west of Medan and en route to Bukit Lawang. It costs 40,000 IDR and takes around 2 hours, depending on traffic. ALS buses run roughly every 45 minutes from 3 AM to 10 PM.
Get off at Medan Supermall if you can. From there, wave down one of the orange Bukit Lawang minibuses (look for the name in the window). Fare is the same as above—15,000–30,000 IDR, payable on arrival only.
If you get dropped at Binjai’s main bus terminal, you’ll need to take a becak (tuk-tuk) to Tanah Lapang, a nearby junction where the Bukit Lawang minibuses stop. This ride will cost about 10,000–15,000 IDR, again depending on your negotiation game.
Quick Recap:
Private Car: 500K–700K IDR | Easiest but most expensive
Pinang Baris Bus: 15K–30K IDR | Budget-friendly, a little chaotic
ALS + Minibus via Binjai: ~55K–70K IDR | Cheapest, a bit of a mission
- Pay your fare when you arrive at you destination: If you pay before you maybe end up being charged twice.
Tips for Trekking in Gunung Leuser (a.k.a. How Not to Get Bitten, Ripped Off, or Leeched)
Before you dive headfirst into the jungle, here are a few things I wish someone had told me:
Do your research on tour providers.
Seriously. Don’t just pick the first smiling face with a machete. I saw some guides feeding orangutans, which is not only unethical, it’s illegal. Choose a company that actually respects the animals and follows park rules. Read reviews, ask questions, and don’t be afraid to say no to a dodgy operator.
Bring enough cash and then a bit more.
There are no ATMs in Bukit Lawang, and I didn’t find anywhere that accepted cards. Well… there was one guy, but he charged 10% commission, which felt more like a jungle tax. If you run out, it’s a pricey taxi (30 minutes or more) to the nearest ATM.
Time your visit wisely.
We went right as COVID was ramping up, so it was eerily quiet. Normally, high season hits during summer, Easter, and New Year’s and it can get very busy. Imagine trying to enjoy your orangutan moment while surrounded by 100 other sweaty, camera-wielding tourists. Not ideal.
Don’t be that person.
Clean up after yourself. Leave no trace. Keep the jungle beautiful. You know the drill.
Respect the wildlife and keep your distance.
Orangutans aren’t teddy bears. They’re strong, smart, and sometimes unpredictable. Plus, we humans can pass diseases to them, so it’s better for everyone if you admire them from a safe distance.
Leeches are real and they don’t care about your personal space.
If you’re going in the wet season, be prepared for these blood-sucking ninjas. They’ll sneak in through the tiniest gaps in your clothes. They’re not painful, but they are messy. Some tour companies offer gaiters to help block them… for an extra fee, of course.
Wear proper shoes.
The trek isn’t Everest, but it does have some steep, muddy bits. A decent pair of walking shoes or hiking boots will make your life a whole lot easier (and your ankles a lot safer).
Protect your snacks.
Never underestimate a macaque. If you leave food lying around, they’ll find it and they’ll take it, probably while making eye contact just to rub it in.
Bring a torch.
There’s no electricity at camp, and the jungle is pitch black at night. If nature calls at 2 a.m., you’ll want more than your phone torch to guide you to the “bathroom.”
You may also be interested in: The Mentawai: Get To Know Sumatra’s Fascinating Indigenous Tribe
My 3-Day Trip to See the Orangutans
After landing in Sumatra, we made the usual post-flight pit stop to grab a local SIM card a must if you want to stay connected out here. Then we hit the road to Bukit Lawang. Since we had work in the evening (the remote life doesn’t pause for jungle adventures), we opted for a private car, which cost us around 400,000 IDR (~$30). Honestly, not a bad deal for the convenience and saved time.
We’d already booked our room in Bukit Lawang, and when we arrived, we discovered it was across the river. So we grabbed our bags, navigated the narrow streets, crossed a rickety bridge (welcome to adventure mode), and arrived at the hotel. It’s not a big town, so the walk wasn’t far.
After a quick unpack-repack session for our trek, we started looking for a tour operator. You’ll find plenty of options in town, and most offer similar packages so take your time and shop around if you’re keen to compare prices or guide vibes.
Fun fact: you can spot wildlife before you even hit the park. We saw Thomas leaf monkeys, macaques, and even two orangutans right by the river. Not a bad warm-up act.
Later that evening, after an early dinner, we booked our two-day jungle trek through our hotel. We ended up going for a package deal that covered everything, transport, accommodation, and the trek. Easy, all-in-one, and we didn’t have to chase anyone down the next morning.
A quick heads-up: you can’t trek solo in Gunung Leuser. It’s not just a bad idea, it’s against park rules. The jungle is vast and disorienting, and going in without a guide is both dangerous and, honestly, pointless. A good guide knows where to look, increasing your chances of spotting wildlife (and not getting lost forever).
Day Two – Into the Jungle
We were up bright and early, buzzing with excitement and caffeine, ready to track down some wild orangutans. After a quick breakfast, we set off around 9 a.m., following the river toward the Gunung Leuser National Park.
And we didn’t have to wait long.
Within 30 minutes, we saw a mother orangutan and her son further up the trail. They were calm, curious, and ended up walking alongside us for another 20 minutes or so, a surreal moment I won’t forget. I was shocked at how quickly we’d found them, but our guide explained that many of the orangutans around Bukit Lawang are semi-wild. They were rescued and rehabilitated at a now-closed center (which officially shut in 2002), but still linger near the area.
As we ventured deeper into the jungle, we kept an eye out for orangutan nests, massive bundles of leaves tucked into the canopy. They usually make multiple nests and move between them throughout the day, kind of like the treehouse version of hotel hopping.
After crossing through a rubber plantation, we spotted another female orangutan, this time with a male close behind. This was where things got a bit crowded. A few other tour groups had turned up, and it quickly became a paparazzi jungle shoot. Everyone wanted the best shot some getting a little too close for comfort. Personally, I found that hanging back gave me the best moments: less stress, better perspective, and often a better photo too.
We continued trekking for a few hours, winding through vines and muddy slopes, always on the lookout for new sightings. Around 1 p.m., we stopped for lunch, nasi goreng and a pile of fresh fruit laid out on banana leaves. A small touch, but one I appreciated: no plastic waste, no damage to the jungle.
The afternoon brought more wildlife. We saw Thomas leaf monkeys, pig-tailed macaques, gibbons, monitor lizards, and even a draco lizard gliding between the trees. Oh, and of course, the leeches made their dramatic entrance. They love to sneak into boots and socks, and although they aren’t painful, they’re not exactly welcome.
We arrived at our camp for the night in the late afternoon. The setup was basic but had everything we needed: a raised wooden platform, thin foam mattress, mosquito net, and the jungle soundtrack playing in the background. We brought our own sleeping bags, which I definitely recommend.
There were no toilets, just a designated “find a tree” system a short walk from camp. Classic jungle style.
We took a refreshing dip in the river right next to our sleeping area, rinsing off the sweat, mud, and leech trauma. Then dinner arrived: a spread of Indonesian dishes cooked right there at camp. My girlfriend’s a vegetarian, and we’d let the guides know ahead of time, she had zero issues. Just be sure to mention dietary needs when you book, and they’ll usually take good care of you.
Tired, slightly sunburnt, but completely content we crashed out under the net, listening to the jungle come alive around us
Day Three – One Last Encounter
I was a bit surprised at how late we started the next morning. After waking up to the gentle roar of the river and the occasional monkey call, we had a breakfast of fresh fruit and didn’t set off until around 10 a.m. As someone who usually likes to beat the heat and hit the trail at sunrise, it felt a little slow but hey, jungle time moves differently.
Since we were on the 2-day trek, today was all about heading back to Bukit Lawang. But the jungle wasn’t done with us just yet.
Roughly an hour into the walk, we caught sight of a mother orangutan and her baby chilling in a nest high up in the canopy. We stopped to watch them for a while, and just when we thought it was time to move on, they had other ideas. A little while later, they followed us. No joke, just before lunch, they reappeared at ground level, maybe 5 or 6 metres from where we were standing.
The mum parked herself nearby while her baby used her as a climbing frame. At one point, she even started smashing twigs with a rock, as casually as someone twirling spaghetti on a fork. I remember laughing as she tried to kiss her baby, who reacted just like a human toddler, pushing her away with a vibe that screamed “Mum! Not in front of the tourists!”
We were reluctantly dragged away by our guide for lunch, but I could have stayed there all day.
After eating, our group split some continued on for the 3-day trek, while we started making our way back. On the return journey, we saw a few more orangutans and some gibbons, swinging through the trees like they were late for something.
We made it back to Bukit Lawang by 3 p.m., which honestly made it feel more like a half-day hike than a full-day jungle trek.
There’s an option to return to town via tubing for around $20, which sounds cool in theory but we passed. We weren’t ready to stop wildlife spotting, and floating past in a tube didn’t seem like the best way to maximise sightings. Plus, twenty bucks for a quick float? We figured we’d earned our walk back.
Back in town, we headed straight for a cold shower, followed by some planning for our next stop: Lake Toba.
Final Thoughts on Seeing Orangutans in Sumatra
Seeing orangutans in the wild was one of those rare travel moments that completely lives up to the hype. It’s hard to put into words what it’s like to lock eyes with a creature so closely related to us, watching them swing through the trees or casually chill on a branch like it’s just another Tuesday in the jungle. It’s humbling, beautiful, and, at times, completely surreal.
That said, it’s not always a fairy tale. The jungle is hot, muddy, leech-filled, and occasionally smells like whatever was left in your backpack a week too long. But if you’re okay with a bit of discomfort and love wildlife, it’s 100% worth it.
Gunung Leuser National Park is an incredible place, not just for orangutans but for all the other amazing species that call this lush corner of Sumatra home. Just remember, your experience depends massively on the tour company you choose, so do your research, pick someone ethical, and treat the park and its wildlife with the respect it deserves.
If I could go back and do it all again (and I probably will), I’d spend more time in Ketambe for a quieter, more immersive jungle experience. But even from Bukit Lawang, the encounters we had were unforgettable.
In the end, if you’re dreaming of seeing orangutans in the wild, go for it. Pack your walking boots, bring some patience, and prepare for a few sweaty, muddy, awe-inspiring days that just might become your new favourite travel memory.
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